How to make a Westeros Map - Pt.1

I'm a big fan of A Song of Ice and Fire, the book series upon which the TV series Game of Thrones is based (hell, I adore the show aswell and I can't say that about many book to film adaptations). They really got the casting right, didn't they? Anyway...

A while back I bought a copy of A Game of Thrones: The Board Game (2nd Ed.) and proceeded to play a few games with friends. After getting through the unnecessarily dense rule book I really love the game, it's tense and relies on strategy, teamwork, backstabbing and a little bit of luck. The game tokens, cards and other components are quite lovely and really do the the universe justice. But I really loved the board. I have a bit of a thing for fantasy maps, so with this in mind I decided that I would make a 3D Westeros map from scratch and really go to town on the detail. One could use the method in this guide to make a board that will suit almost all medieval/fantasy board games, though after mulling it over I've decided it'll be for decoration only. The amount of game related detail I'd have to add would ruin the aesthetic in my humble opinion, and this really is meant to be looked at rather than played on. That, and as I don't have to worry about it being a playable surface I don't have to worry about it being a functional piece. And now to the drawing board!

What you'll need

Before starting the build it pays to plan and figure out you'll is required. Here is what I used (power tools not pictured):

Map outline - I used the board game board to trace the outline of the map, but optionally you could get a printed copy of the map using an image from the internet (see the bottom of this post for some suitable links).

Backing board - You could use chipboard or MDF, but a piece of quality edge laminate board will be much more durable, be far less prone to warping and look far better.

Map/Detail board - This is what most of the board detail will be made from. As this will be painted and detailed it doesn't matter what it looks like, so I used 6mm (1/4") MDF as it's easy to cut and shape, plus it adheres well to the backing board.

Tracing pad - A3 or bigger.

Pencils and a couple of fine tipped permanent markers - For tracing and map layout.

Brushes - I used about 6-7 making this board, ranging from a 0 fine tip miniature brush to a 3" gloss brush.

Paints - Make sure they're water based. I used Citadel paints and a commercial brand gloss.

Spray undercoat - I used Citadel Chaos Black, though any matt black water based paint should do.

Wood file/Dremel - I used a fine/med grade 1" flat file and a Dremel with assorted pieces.

Scalpel and/or Scissors - I used both.

Filler - I'm using Builders Bog, but you can use any fine, durable filler. Car filler (bog/bondo) is also suitable, though the tougher the filler the better as it will be subject to more than a few dings with regular play.

PVA Glue - Always good to have some on hand.

Sandpaper - I used a few sheets of 80 and 120 grit sandpaper.

Jigsaw/Router/Coping Saw - I used a jigsaw and router (not pictured) to shape my board, though a coping saw and file will do the job. That said a jigsaw and router make life much, much easier though they are both dangerous tools and as such you should know what you're doing with them lest you hurt yourself. I can't state this loudly enough - power tools are dangerous, especially routers and saws, and as such be sure to wear the appropriate safety equipment whilst using them.

Moulded Trim and Brass Hardware (optional) - When the board is complete I want to protect the edges and frame it nicely, so I'm using 28mm moulded hardwood trim, brass nails and brass corners with brass tacks. This is entirely optional but I recommend it as it looks great and evens out the edges to give it a uniform, professional aesthetic.

Making the board

Step 1 - Tracing and cutting out the map

This is a seemingly simple step but know that it is fiddly, precise and time consuming. As you can see in the image below, I needed to use three sheets of tracing paper to trace the board in full. I used a pencil to do the tracing and a scalpel and pair of scissors to cut out the shape. This step is fairly easy but I will state this - take your time, do it once and do it well. If you make a mistake you will not be a happy individual.

N.B. - I have cut out all the islands around Westeros and put them aside, as they'll be added later. The process is the same as the map except on a smaller scale.

Left: The three pieces of tracing paper, ready to be traced on. Right: Traced and cut out carefully.  

Once that's done it's time to get a print of it on the map/detail board (6mm MDF, in this case). Be sure to put blu-tack/tape in the middle of each piece of tracing paper to keep it still, and spray from the middle of the paper to the outside and not the other way around (as you'll blow the tracing paper away). Also, keep the used pieces of tracing paper as you might want to use them again (and believe me, you won't want to trace the map again!).

Above: The tracing paper before and after being used as a spray stencil.

Step 2 - Cutting, shaping and putting it all together.

As with tracing the map this might seem to be a fairly easy task, but again it is fiddly, time consuming and it is very easy to make a mistake (and even harder to correct it). Once again take your time, do it once and do it accurately.

Above: Rough map cut out using the jigsaw, after which I used a router and jigsaw to cut out the detail. The edges will be rough after being cut, so be sure to use sandpaper to tidy them up.

Below Left: The complete map cutout and backing board.   Below Right: Placing the moulding against the board's edge I aligned the top of the map to it to make sure than when it's finished it all fits flush together.

Above: Though the glue would've been more than enough to hold the map to the backing board I used a dozen 1" tacks to hold the map in place. This also ensures the map doesn't move accidentally because once the glue is dry you'd destroy it before you're able to adjust its position.


Below Left: I used a two part epoxy glue to adhere the map cutout to the backing board. Make sure you sand wood surfaces thoroughly before you apply the glue, and be sure to apply it evenly and give it plenty of time to set (I left it overnight).   Below Right: The finished board, ready for detailing. The islands were rather fiddly to get right but they look great.

Step 3 - Preparing the board for detail.

I used a couple of permanent markers to outline the features of Westeros on the board before adding detail to make sure everything was laid out correctly. Lucky for me a short way into the build I was given a set of maps of the entire Song of Ice and Fire world by some close friends for my birthday (thanks again Kendall and Dan!) so I had great reference material to work with, but if you were to jump on Google you'd find a number of great maps to use (I've put links to a couple of good ones at the bottom of this post). I recommend you colour code the features so that you don't mistake a river for the edge of a mountain range (or vice-versa), and double check everything before proceeding. 

Above: The completed blank board, ready for detail.

Check out part 2 to see how to add detail, paint the board and apply the finishing touches.

Westeros Map Links:

http://gameofthrones.net/images/Westeros_Maps/map_of_westeros.jpg

http://barbariana.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Map2-2_Map_of_Westeros_Original.jpg

The 'Where's Waldo' Westeros Map (warning: big [!] file) - http://www.fanboy.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Westeros.jpg

Chaos Castle Pt. 2 - Basing and further building

Now that I've got a structure to work with I can move on to basing. What you make your base from will very much depend on what you're looking for. In keeping with the recycling theme I'm making a cardboard base, but not just because I want to recycle as much as possible - it's also a great base as it is stiff, light, strong and best of all free. You could use foam board (delicate but very light), MDF/masonite/chipboard (strong but heavy but not ideal for putting on top of other terrain) or in fact any other fairly thin material that you like. Another reason why I like using cardboard is because it stands up to knocks/bumps and falls better than any other material and you can shape it easily using a modelling knife, bread knife, retractable knife, shears etc. This makes it a very flexible material - did I mention it's free also?

One thing to bear in mind is this - the bigger the base the thicker it needs to be. In the case of this castle the base will be around 75cm (2.5') in width and around 90cm (3') in depth. This means that it is in no way suitable to use only a single layer of cardboard as it would flex/bend too easily and wouldn't be sturdy enough. To make a solid base I'm going to use 3 layers in a lattice pattern. This makes it extra strong, in fact many times stronger than a single piece of cardboard as thick as the 3 layers of the cardboard I'm using combined.





Above: I'm using some pretty big boxes made from thick card to make this base - leftovers of some electrical items that I bought.

Below: When I say to lay it in a lattice pattern I mean that you should alternate the direction of each layer when you glue them together. You can see the 'grain' of the corrugated cardboard runs in two directions. In corrugated cardboard the outside layers sandwich a centre layer of 'wavy' (re: corrugated) card that gives it strength and protects whatever it is packaging/carrying. The idea is to layer them in opposite directions for each new layer, increasing strength in all directions and making it less prone to bending/flexing. The more layers you add in a lattice formation the stronger it gets, in this case 3 layers will be plenty. Obviously the bigger the base the more layers you'll need (for most small items [i.e. less than 50 x 50cm {}] two layers is plenty).




Above: 2 layers of corrugated cardboard in a lattice configuration.

Below: When gluing layers together use PVA glue, it doesn't matter what brand as they're all the same (regardless of what anyone tells you), what matters is that you use plenty and get good coverage of the two surfaces being glued together. TIP - When you glue cardboard together push them on to each other and then rub the 2 layers together, this will distribute the glue across both surfaces evenly and fill all the cracks, helping it adhere better. It also helps stop big blobs of PVA from forming, which makes it cure faster.



Above: Once you've glued the two layers together put some evenly distributed weight on top. This will make the final bond between them that much stronger and more consistent.

Below: The third layer isn't a full layer per se. Instead, I'm using 3 off large off cuts as stiffening boards. Again I've used plenty of glue, put them in a lattice formation, placed some evenly distributed weight on top and given them a few hours to dry.




Below: You don't have to do this but I like to, particular on cardboard bases of this size. After poking two holes in the base I've used a twist tie (most often found on bread bags and new electric cables) and pushed it through each hole. Once done you simple twist it off until it's tight and then move on to the next hole. This may seem like overkill but I like doing this on bigger bases, by no means do you have to do the same.





Above and Below: All tied off. I used 5 ties, though I would've used 6 if I didn't run out. Again this isn't strictly necessary, I just like to make sure.




Above: Once the base is all dry and ready to go it's time to mark out where it's going to be cut. When cutting the edge try to cut it at about a 15 degree angle - this makes it slope off so that it looks better on the battlefield and doesn't come to an abrupt 90 degree angle.

Below: Cutting the base. You can use a bread/modelling/retractable knife, but always make sure that you're cutting away from yourself and take it slowly. Slipping and cutting yourself is not pleasant.




Above: The cut and finished base, all ready to have the castle glued to it.

Below: The foam walls, glued to to the base. It takes a lot longer for glue to cure when gluing foam and cardboard together. Also, be very wary using anything other than PVA (craft glue) on foam - most other glues either won't bond strongly enough, or they'll melt the foam. If in doubt, test it on a scrap piece first. You can see I've also glued the carved off pieces of foam to make the buttresses match. Don't worry about any small gaps as they'll be covered over with filler.

Above: The boxes are going to form the base of a rocky outcrop, on the front of which will be a portal.

Below: I cut a slot in the back of the bigger box, so that I could wedge the smaller box into it. This also makes it a lot stronger, particularly since I glued, stapled and taped it all together.

Below: Using a utility knife I cut lots of nicks/wedges/holes in the sides of the boxes, so that filler, rocks and other items I add aren't the only depth it's given. This also draws attention away from the fact that the rocky outcrop is, in fact, boxes.

Up next - texture, the portal, adding detail and generally making the castle look pretty EEEeeeevil!

Chaos Castle Pt. 1 - Structure

What fantasy/sci fi world is complete without a glittering castle, polysteel bastion, fortified artillery position, dark ziggurat or twisted alcazar with all the trimmings? The answer is none, in case I hadn't clued you in to the rhetorical nature of that question. With this in mind I've been planning to show you how to build one for quite a while but wasn't quite sure what I wanted to make - castles/strongholds make very large terrain items and can be hard to store, so it's unlikely that it'll be too large, too tall or that you'd have more than one (unless they were small keeps or the like, or if you had a massive room/shed/real castle to house them in). Pondering this I decided that I wanted the castle to fit in with my recently made terrain board set - stony, cold, very little life, god(s) forsaken, constantly stricken with bizarre weather events and so on.

Deciding that I was spending too much time idly thinking I went to work about the house, cleaning out the spare room and garage so as to appease the lords of domesticity. Just as I was considering what I was going to make my castle from I came across a couple of boxes with polystyrene liners - remnants of some recently purchased electronic goods. Lining them up next to the recycling bin I decided to take a closer look. After pulling them apart I could see a future in these polystyrene lumps and subsequently saved them for the construction of my new edifice. If you don't have polystyrene suitable for your building/castle/dungeon/giant pants I recommend that you chat with your local electronics store or tech college - they usually have a tonne of this stuff and rarely do they have any use for it.




Before putting the pieces of the castle together there was a bit of work to be done. Each piece had to fit perfectly at a 90 degree angle to the others, so some cutting was required. When cutting polystyrene there are a couple of methods - the most popular being the 'bread knife' and 'hot wire' techniques. I used the former but many swear by hot wire cutters, they tend to be cleaner and very fast (but create a terrible smell). Using a bread knife is slower and you have to be careful not to tear chunks off, it is also a bit messy but it's the cheaper option (assuming you have a serrated/bread knife) and works perfectly well. Before you cut make sure that you've got the angle correct - once cut there is no going back.



NOTE: If using a knife don't push or force it through - use a gentle sawing motion instead, let the serrations do the work. If you're using a hot wire cutter make sure that you're cutting on something not likely to melt/burn easily. For both method make sure you're outside - the hot wire will make a horrible smell and the knife will leave a mess (I cut with a plastic bag beneath the polystyrene as it captures all the waste and makes life much easier).


Above: All angles correct and ready to put together.

Once all the cutting was done it was time to line up the pieces and see how they fitted together. To do this I used a few double pointed toothpicks, though you could use cocktail sticks, skewers or anything similar. Stick a couple on each surface to be joined and then carefully slide them together. Make sure that you do this BEFORE you add any glue, else you won't be able to change them around/modify them.





Above and Below: If you look closely you'll notice that there are some rough parts inbetween the 'pillars' at the front - the same goes for the pieces of the side. This is where I've used to knife to flatten unwanted protusions off, making the walls look more consistent. I'll be using filler later to smooth these over, give the foam some texture and to ensure that the foam doesn't melt when I undercoat it (more about that in another installment). The small pieces of foam in front are parts that I cut off of the pieces of foam that I didn't want - they're going to help by continuing the line of the half pillars and filling the gap.



Below: The final product. I was excited about how this was going to turn out but now I'm psyched - unpainted and factory white it's looking cool, but once it's rendered, detailed and painted it'll be a different ball game altogether. In keeping with the spirit of how I believe this hobby should be approached there will be as much recycling and as little monetary expenditure as possible, relying instead upon creativity and items we all have lying around (though I am going to scrounge through my parts box for quite a few bits and pieces).



In case you were wondering the back of the castle is not going to be a wall...



The next installment will demonstrate how to base, add detail and get the castle ready for painting.

Cheers!

Making your own Terrain Boards - Update

Following on from the Terrain Board tutorials I thought I'd show you yet another that I've made. This one has a bit more detail - a corpse bereft of flesh, a bloody sacrificial altar and some pikes for good measure.

The method I use to make larger hills and the like involves cutting up many pieces of thick cardboard into a manageable size (100 x 50mm [4" x 2"] roughly), slathering them in PVA and putting them together in a 'lattice' layout. Layering them in this manner makes for flexibility, strength (basic engineering at work here) and simplicity. You could just cut out the cardboard in the shape of the hill and layer them that way but I find that this method is faster, easier, stronger and uses less card. It's entirely up to you though.



Below: This shows the layers of the hill being glued in place. Add layer upon layer until you're happy and make sure that you use plenty of glue and give it time to dry (overnight is perfect). Oh and yes, that is a big (real!) rock on one end of the hill. I only used PVA and a little filler to hold it in place, simple.




Below: To get a nice finish on top I put a large piece of card. This isn't necessary but I wanted a nice, smooth platform which only needed a skim coat of filler.



Below: An example of what happens when you put on filler too thick. You can fix this fairly easily by putting on a skim coat to fill the cracks but try to avoid it where possible as it can make it more prone to dislodge and flake off.



Below: The completed boards, all ready to be undercoated. Remember to give your boards plenty of time to dry before undercoating.





Below: The pikes were made from bamboo skewers and the altar is a piece of balsa wood cut, slashed and chipped randomly (using a modelling knife) with a Chaos standard taken from my bits box (which was also cut/slashed with the knife).

SAFETY NOTE: Be careful when using a modelling knife and make sure you're cutting AWAY from yourself, where possible cutting on to a chopping board, modelling mat, used thick magazine or similar. You're going to cut yourself eventually - the skill is in making sure you don't cut yourself seriously.



Below: The undercoated board, ready to go.



Below: The completed board ready to have detail added. The skeleton was painted using Bleached Bone and final highlights of white.



Below: All done. The skeleton had some Chestnut/Flesh wash applied, supplemented by a few select splotches of a mix of Blood Red, Crimson and Chestnut wash highlighted with straight Blood Red. To get the clotted blood effect on the altar I applied the same mix really thick and applied a couple of coats, making sure there was enough to form a couple of drips. The Chaos symbol on the rock used the same mix again with a touch of Purple to give it a magic/surreal effect.





Below: I painted some foot/knee/hand prints on the right to show someone who tried to get away whilst bleeding heavily.



Again this board cost less than $10 to make (excluding the skeleton and Chaos symbol).

Cheers!